Water Busses and Night Trains

I want to start out this gloriously long entry with a preface that this week/weekend may have been the most beautiful and fantastic one of my entire 20 years.
And now I have to check on my laundry that took 15 min. of pressing random buttons until it decided to start drizzling water into the eensy barrel…whirlpool Europe is SO not up to par!....yep,its still drizzling! Ah Success.
Alright so where do I even start? Oh yes forewarning, I just got home from Venice on the night train and had a total of about 3 hours of sleep to recover from the past week…so excuse my writing yes? So it is Saturday morning and actually the first cooler day ive seen here! Its miraculous! I think it rained here last night so that explains it. Its beautiful and breezy and all the old ladies are hanging out their table cloths and rugs to dry out the window. Someones baby us screaming its lungs out like it just got an ice cold bath, similar to my chilly shower this morning. But really who can deny any sort of shower when you’ve had the kind of week I have.
Tuedays night was the first adventure. We went as a group to the Roman Opera in the middle of some ancient ruins of Roman Baths. The ruins themselves were huge and looming and gave me some great ideas for the kind of bathroom I may want in the future…im really into the whole spa in your backyard thing, I think the Romans had the right idea. So we get to the place and its huge. The Stage is a tilted and raised platform painted a dramatic black white and red map like thing and the stadium seating is packed with perfumed ladies in their nicest summer furs and old men smoking cigs and looking sleepy. We of course are entirely underdressed but really just happy to be sitting down, even if it is in the last row on the far left side.
Side note- while we were waiting for our professor we saw this awesome fashion show being set up right next to the colosseum that ended right in the Triumphant Arch of Constantine! We sincerely wanted to join the sickly looking models but were appeased when we got to dance to the thumping rehearsal music and watch the designer coach the girls down the pre-runway show. Bizarre and unreal.
Back to the Opera. Three acts, two intermissions. Wow those things are boring! Now im just saying that the story lines are boring, the story could honestly be told in about 2 minutes, but the music on the other hand was incredible! The main woman was of course a little on the heavy side (which delighted all of us, because we conveniently knew when the play was over, because the fat lady had finally sung her last note) and her voice was perfect in every way, it was high and low and her range was awesome and her costumes (including a pick sequined number) were fantastic. The main guy was definitely my favorite though and completely stole the show every time he opened his mouth. It was just awesome in every way. Of course they threw in some special effects and some creepy priests to keep everyone awake. Like the dramatic stage being surrounded by a sudden ring of fire and the 10 soldiers shooting the loudest shotguns Ive ever heard and the live sheep bah-ing its head off while a little boy sang. And who could forget the epic murder of the villain by the heroine with a Candlestick in the shape of a symbolic cross. Just a whole myriad of wonderfulness really. OK that’s all I have to say about that.
Oh yeah, keep in mind that im using a lot of this blog for actual assignments for my writing class, so if I go into too much detail those of you who’ve taken a BYU English class will understand.
So, next morning we get up and ready to go on the train to Florence. Our little group of three gets on the metro to SURPRISE a malfunctioning train. The metro inches along the tracks and stops a bajillion times in random spots along the way. We start freaking out that we are going to miss our train so when we finally get off the supposed 15 min. ride that took us about 25 this time, we are booking it. We get to the train station and find that we have no idea how to read our tickets..American remember. We scramble around trying to figure it out and finally find this nice looking business man in a suit and tie that stops and helps us over to where we are supposed to be. I will forever be thankful to those people who sat in his meeting waiting for the kind gentleman at the train station helping the stupid American girls find their platform. Once we start calming down we realize that ANOTHER SURPRISE! No one else in the group is there yet! We get on the train and slowly the story unfolds about a group of girls who also experienced train difficulties (it was a rough day for the metro system) and ended up getting split up, some people having other peoples backpacks. A.k.a entire lives with them and girls sprinting onto the first car on the train at the last minute and crying drama queens that were nervous enough to separate completely from the group and basically a full on fiasco. I found it quite amusing.
Needless to say we all made it to Florence all right except of course the epic other half of my apartment that has yet to be on time for anything and actually missed an entire museum in Florence, wow they are SO COOL! Kill me.
So we went to the Uffizi museum where the famous Leonardo, Michelangelo and Botticelli works are and saw beautiful things as well as several marble heads…I swear every person in ancient Rome has a freaking stone head of him or herself in some random museum. Cant they just keep a couple and chuck the rest? Shoot.My favorites in this museum were the Venus in springtime, or the birth of Venus, and also some huge sketch by Leonardo davinci that was gorgeous on a big canvas with sepia colored paint or ink or something *kind of like the stuff the actor uses in Everafter) it was of the Nativity scene and it was sooo awe inspiring I could have looked at it forever and never have seen it all. After that we went along to see the giant statue of David, and giant it was! Though a little disproportionate…it was still a site to see! I still don’t understand how Mike got up there to sculpt that perfect jaw and curly locks, the statue is about 13 feet of super naked hunk! Of course one of my roommates got a nice postcard of his tight behind to send to her missionary…I passed on that opportunity (how funny would it be if she sent it saying “my dream butt. Work hard.” Bahahahahahahah)
Ohp, quickl break, gotta go push more random buttons to drain my laundry of the dirty water into the sink next to it…weird.
So after this hilariousness we find our hotel and realize that it’s the most picturesque, quaint little place run by this little vibrant Italian lady who shakes all of our hands and is thrilled to tell us anything she possibly can about the city. We get our 4 keys to the four different doors to the hotel (it was on some little street with the huge doors and gates inside that and door up the stairs then door to our room…lots of doors=lots of safety!) we have a big window that opens up to reveal another window of the tiny bed and breakfast/hotel and a beautiful window box full of pink and red flowers. ( of course later that night when I took a shower I stood in my towel and yelled “good night Florence!” to the world out our little window, who could resist?) We had soft towels for once, clean sheets, a great shower, and a bade, what more could we ask for? After an hour and a half nap we went out to explore the night and had just about the best night of our lives. We met a big group for dinner outside this cute restaurant and then of course went to find the best gelato in Florence, lead by Mark, the king of the Rick Steves Italian travel guide book. Truly this book has taught us all about the true meaning of good gelato, cheap food and secret entrances. So mark lead us to a beautiful dessert then marie and I and Kate and amy went to the Big famous bridge over the River to watch the sunset while the boys went to go give one of the girls a blessing who was feeling homesick and worn down. We came to find that Florence night life is awesome! On the bridge we sat down and listened to this awesome guitar player serenade the whole bridge that was full of locals and tourists just enjoying the night! We bought his CD..italian music? Duhhh! Then the boys found us and sat and listened with us for a while. I think they like hanging out with us because we make decisions fast and actually do them. So after a random group of candle bearing mourners walked across the bridge (while the kind Italian musician played soft music and we all sat quietly) we decided to go find this youth symphony that was supposed to be playing that night. Now I don’t think Ive made you see how awesome the night had already been. We knew we had a warm place to sleep that night, the music and atmosphere on the bridge was electric and light and fun and we just chatted and listened and watched the sun fall into the water with a brilliant sunset left behind and we were with people who were totally laid back and happily full of good gelato. So we walk a little ways to this little hole in the street that opens up to the beautiful grand church and inside is a free symphonic orchestra bit. Since it was nearing the end there were tons of seats open so we sit in the second row and start listening. Im not exaggerating when I say the first piece we heard made me cry it was so beautiful! We were all in shock! Me, mark, marie, and Heston just watched, jaws to the floor listening to these kids play that most moving song Ive ever heard. I was in Heaven. After that they played two upbeat pieces that included the trumpets on their feet and the clarinets dancing and the percussion were a show in and of themselves. We were all laughing we were so giddy. The music was awesome I cant even explain it!
Ok this is getting long sooorrry. So that night we were just in a fit back at the hotel and stayed up way to late chatting but it was a much needed girl time so that was fun. Then the next day we started out climbing the steps of the Duomo church. 436 steps I believe in a cramped, winding staircase big enough for one person wide all the way up to the top of the dome. We got so close to the intense paintings on the dome (complete with monsters eating men and demons cutting their skin in half to show their insides along with angelic children and thoughtful elders…) that we could have done a little damage if so inclined. So up the steps we went and at the top was the most beautiful view of Florence and the countryside surrounding it. Wow is all I can say. The view went for miles of what Italy is really supposed to look like. Terra cotta roofs and different colored houses with winding streets and designer shops and the ever present Catholic Cathedral looming above it all. After the long descent we walked around for a while down to a market that I had to buy this beautiful scarf from. I wanted a real silk scarf, but couldn’t fork out the euros, so I went for a simpler more funky colored one that I and 37 other girls are all in love with now. After that myself, marie,matt Mark, Heston and Marks sister Emily decided to strike out on our own to see the old prison in Florence. The building was awesome, but what was even cooler was the weapons room where me and the boys tried to decide which spear would do the most damage in battle and which we would prefer to use to kill and why…quite the interesting conversation pursued and I feel that if ever asked I would know exactly what kind of forked, winged, gun tipped spear I would like to use. Marvelous. But really looking at all the old armor and guns and saddles and equipment was way to cool and renaissancy to be true. Too neato. After this we went to a park and chilled for a bit, saw the famous house of Michelangelo (totally anticlimactic and quite boring with its plain façade and boring barred windows like everyone else’s house, its amazing what you decided to skip when a price to enter is involved) Then we went to see the house of the great Medici Family, the patrons of the arts and pretty much the rulers of Italy in their day and that was wayyyyy cool . It looks like the government still uses the old bank/house as a meeting place and it doubles as a museum to their genius. The man sure knew how to please his guests and colleagues and really knew how to convince them of his ways whilest also encouraging young artists (like Michelangelo) and performers like Catherine and her dance obsession. Dinner was awesome as me mark and marie decided to order three different things and split them making us the fullest we’d been in a while (they just don’t eat as much here and we get hungry! We have more like 5 meals a day, two of them often including gelato…)Then that night we watched the full sunset on the bridge as well as a bride and groom taking pics on the bridge. All of us girls cringed when we saw her long white trained dragging through the filthy streets of Florence already a sooty black rim around the edges. Just like the whole town her gown looked beautiful and glistening and classic at first, but with a close look the glisten is just a thick layer of sweat and the classic sense is attributed to the dirty film that covers every inch in the city. And yet it still holds its beautiful charm and romantic looks. The gorgeous night ended with my most expensive gelato here yet. 9 freaking euros that I thought was only going to be 5 at most…I was angry haha oh well you live life, then you die right?
The next mornings train ride went much smoother and we arrived in Venice on time and smelling a little better after a shower and a good nights sleep. We waited in a huge line of travelers to get rid of our bags for the day then set off on another amazing adventure. Now Venice ist eh place I would suggest for lovers, couples or just a day trip. Truly the most beautiful place in Italy ive seen so far. The water brings in a cool breeze to S.Marcos square and the pigeons seem to be friends with everyone, in the words of one small British boy to his sister “elli! Look! I made a new friend!” (say that with a tiny british boy accent and imagine an angelic face of a little bright eyed boy with a flying rat on his arm flapping around wildly) The coast comes right up to the steps during the day and the Gondolas bob up and down like old men chattering away all day. They remind me of the funny group of grandpas down an alley way in the Jewish Ghetto in Rome that just sit and talk madly with their hands chuckling and arguing together right before dinner time. We sat on the edge of the water and let it cool our scorching feet and dry legs. Then we decided to go into S.Marks cathedral but were discouraged by the huge line of people standing in the 90+ sunshine waiting. Miraculously there turns out to be a secret bag check across from the cathedral that is you check your bags there first you can get a pass that fast tracks you to the very front of the line and the kindly guard just takes off the big red rope and lets you in with a smile and a nod. WHAT!?!?! Did that really happen to us? Yes, yes it did, we freaked out because we got the star treatment and just skipped the miserable waiting! Freak we were like superstars bahahha. Thank you Rick Steves! The church was glorious. The floor was completely colored marble mosaics and the ceiling completely gold inlaid mosaics with marble portraits. It was just gorgeous. Though I did really want to cross over the other red ropes in to what looked to me like dungeons… someday. So then we wandered through the streets and looked into all the little glass shops and markets and had the best time. This is my kind of city, where artists are on every corner in every shop, blowing glass, shaping candels, painting masks and etching scenes of venice. One mask chop we went into had all these beautifully crafted, paper mache masks with intricate paint and detail as well as a couple metal lace masks and over the tob feathered pieces. I was in heaven and had to restrain myself not to buy one. It was more like a fairytale than reality and I really could’ve stayed for another two days. One thing we decided to do was take a water bus back to the train station that night, so after a delicious dinner of my first lasagna in Italy (the best ive ever had) we start walking toward the plaza where the ride starts with the sun set. We grab some famous gelato and head to the dock but unfortunately something amazing happens…it starts to rain. Hurray! Rain! We walk in it for a while licking our cones, happy to finally not be torched by the suns rays and cooling down a little. Then it starts to pour, as in pelt. The four of us girls and TJ scramble to the nearest doorway and huddle tight to protect our bags from the downpour. We laugh it off thinking it will stop soon. Just then something smacks me in the foot. Hail. Big, fat rock hard, icy hail comes at us from all directions banging into our faces and smacking us on the head and bouncing off our newly tanned feet. At this point we are all laughing hysterically thinking aloud that this cannot be happening right now. But sure enough through our screams we hear the people across our little hiding place chuckling at us and the tourists in the restaurant a little ways down taking videos and pictures of the soaking American girls screaming in the hailstorm. Probably one of my better moments Id say. The rain was hitting so hard that the little restaurant had to knock over some chairs and tables to shut the windows so the water wouldn’t get inside! Oh heavens just a hilarious turn of events on such a sunny gorgeous day. So wetter than a bathed pack of dogs we trudge up to the boat and find that the other group of girls had a similar, if not wetter experience and we all were quite a site to see. We hopped on the water bus and saw the rest of Florence on the Grand Canal out the back of the public transportation  another group of girls later told us of their hailstorm experience mid-gondola ride and we had to admire the even more theatrical setting of their misfortune. The city at night was magical and the scenes were straight out of a picture book where the bright lights popped out over the water and the doors went right up to the water where well dressed couples waited on the water for a water taxi to pick them up for a night ride. Ah Venice, my kind of city.
The train station was terrifying. Random students and travelers slept on the floor or sat close in groups waiting for the night train and played poker or wrestled around us, the little BYU group (well mob like actually) of girls switching PJ shorts for skirts right there in the station, too cheap to pay the 80 cents for the bathroom and too afraid to leave the boys sight for too long. After we finally got on the train we realized that we had perhaps taken the wrong choice on this one. The train was cramped, hot smelly and ancient looking. And the people only added to the dimness. Think of Hogwarts express with only one side of small rooms and many, MANY more terrifying creepy men wandering the halls trying to talk to you. I walked into the car where the three of us girls were sitting and found a huge black women and an old Italian man with his little son sitting in our seats. I wasn’t really in the mood to negotiate so I announced loudly that these were our seats and they had to get out of the car right now because we had paid to sit in them. They all stared at me blankly then slowly removed themselves grumpily one by one. What the heck people Americans are NOT pushover, reserve your own dang seats! The one little Japanese guy (he was 23) who actually was in the right car chuckled as I ushered the unwanted creepers out of the car and said “they were in my seats too! Thank you!” haha we became good friends and I learned all about his studying in Stockholm and life in Tokyo where he lives but wishes he could go back to the Japanese countryside. Also about his love for harry potter and wide open landscapes…good guy. The two girls that ended up sitting in the car with us were so nice and studying in Madrid from Puerto Rico studying law. We all spoke English and were all well dressed and not terribly frightening as some of the people outside our little window were. (we closed the blinds ASAP when we realized that some sketchy man was staring into our compartment.) As I went to check on the other girls and find out where the boys were just in case I saw that the other cars were not so friendly as ours was and I felt bad for some of the girls who had to sit alone. Luckily the boys took charge and checked on us themselves a million times before they went to sleep, making sure no one was too freaked out or if they needed a sitting partner or to switch so as not to be alone they volunteered. Heston even went with me to check on maries car that was in a different part of the train. Gosh dang we are so lucky to have four very protective return missionaries that don’t take no for an answer for their girls…all 38 of us. Hahaha luckily there was only about 15 girls with us that night. After a little chat with our car we all settled down for some hidioderous “sleep” on the rickety loud train while lights of the multiple cities we passed flashed across our closed lids making us anxious and weary. Several times some strange man tried to walk in our car, perhaps looking for and open seat between stops? Each time heather said “escuzzi! And slammed the door in his face. We would have no strange men in our little haven except for the kind Japanese guy and our four body guards (whom the Puerto Rican girls adopted as their own as well “they look strong!” they said) Eventually, through a fit of sleep and dreams we arrived in Rome in time for the Metro to start up and bring us home again home again jiggidy jig. All was well with the world after I took a shower and rinsed the grime from the train and the dirty Venetian water off my body and tried to erase the stench coming off my limbs.
And so here I sit, so tired im starting to read my writing with a slight British accent and contemplating why I just ate three pieces of white bread, a spoonful of nutella and hazelnut wafers at 9 in the morning. Another glorious start to another glorious day.
Goodnight!